Crochet Sweater Pattern and Tutorial Free

November 22, 2022 Crochet Stitches No Comments

I wanted to be sure to design my very first crochet sweater this year. So far, I have only made one from TCDDIYs crochet sweater designs. I knew I wanted a modern sweater that I had never seen before so I made a quick list of the things I wanted this crochet sweater to be.

There was definitely a want for some kind of a puff sleeve. I secondly knew that I wanted a cropped sweater just for fun and to add a little sass to it. But I also wanted to have something special about the sweater. I’ve always wanted a sweater with little thumb holes so that it could stay on my hand. Thinking that lace cuffs were a fun surprise that could let me have my thumb holes, I went in that direction. It was important that it also be different from the normal ribbing cuffs. I just didn’t feel like doing something as tedious as ribbing this time.

I wanted it to be a little bit girly so I added the picot borders. And finally, I also wanted my crochet sweater to be breathable. Living in the desert makes this is a must for me. So I chose a semi solid/lace stitch pattern.

Let me introduce you to my Clio Sweater, a crochet cropped puff sleeve sweater! It’s feminine, casual and sexy. My new crochet sweater is so versatile. At this point, I have paired it with high waist jeans, mid rise jeans and even one of my old crochet shorts design looks good with it.

I wanted this sweater to work up quickly so I used a J Hook for most of the piece and I used an H Hook to do my border and bottom of the sleeves. The two colors I used were from I Love This Cotton in the colors Toasted Almond and Linen. This is a medium weight 4 yarn and any medium weight 4 yarn should work for this project.

The sizes included in this crochet sweater pattern are XS – 3X. My size is medium and I used about 750 yards of the Toasted Almond and 425 yards of the Linen color. In total, I used about 1175 yards of yarn. You will need approximately 1100 – 2300 yards of yarn depending on your size. I love these two colors together! Just two simple shades of brown together is always a win. This project took about 12 hours total for me to complete from start to finish, minus the design/pattern writing process.

Overall, this crochet cropped puff sleeve sweater is beginner friendly. I would say an advanced beginner crocheter and above would be good for this project. You would need to know how to do single crochets, double crochets and treble crochets as well as picots for the border, so it’s not too hard at all.

The pattern is written for two colors but feel free to look at the total amount of rows for your size and come up with your own color changes or even do a solid color. Either way, I hope you have fun making this crochet cropped sweater!

So without further ado, let’s jump right into the free crochet sweater pattern and tutorial! You can purchase your own copy of this pattern in my Etsy store

Clio Crochet Sweater Pattern

Key

RS – Right Side / Outside of Garment

WS – Wrong Side / Inside of Garment

Ch – Chain

St – Stitch(es)

Sl St – Slip Stitch

Sk – Skip

Sc – Single Crochet

Dc – Double Crochet

Tr – Treble Crochet

Ch3picot – Chain 3 picot

Shell – 5 treble crochet in the same stitch

# – Instructions for a particular size not included (the neck hole is different for certain sizes because of the stitch pattern being alternating at different points)

Gauge

J Hook / 6.0 mm Hook

7 st = 2 in

2 tr rows = 2 in

H Hook / 5.0 mm Hook

8.5 st = 2 in

4.5 dc rows = 2 in

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X)

Waist

XS – 23-24”

S – 25-26.5”

M – 28-30”

L – 32-34”

1X – 36-38”

2X – 40-42”

3X – 44-45”

Materials

Medium Weight 4 Yarn

Color A Yarn – 700 – 1450 Yards

Color B Yarn – 400 – 850 Yards

***Estimate is for cropped look, but you will need more if you would like to extend the sweater for more coverage.

Scissors

J Hook / 6.0 mm Hook

H Hook / 5.0 mm Hook

Stitch Markers

Tapestry Needle / Yarn Needle

Usage: Original design by Charde Crochets. You can make and sell the finished product of this pattern, you can make and gift the finished product of this pattern but you may not share or redistribute or sell this pattern.

Front Panel

Foundation: (Color A) Ch 62 (68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98)

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in every st across. In total, 61 (67, 73, 79, 85, 91, 98) st.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as tr), turn, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, tr*, repeat * across ending with tr in last st.

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as tr), turn, 2 tr in 1st st (3 total with ch 3), *sk 2, tr, sk 2, shell*, repeat * until 3 st left, sk 2, 3 tr in last st.

Repeat rows 2-3 until row 18 ( 18, 18, 18, 20, 22, 22) is complete for a cropped look. Feel free to add 8 more rows to your size for a full sweater. Shown is switching colors every 4 rows, Color B starting on row 6, Color A starting on row 10 and so forth until reaching the indicated row for your size. But feel free to change colors as you wish or even do a solid sweater.

The first side of the neckhole for XS (S, #, #, 1X, 2X, #) only

Row 19 (19, #, #, 21, 23, #): Ch 3, turn, 2 tr in same st (3 total with ch 3), *sk 2, tr, sk 2, shell*, repeat until there are 19 (19, #, #, 25, 25, #) st worked ending with 3 tr (half of the shell) over a single tr.

Row 20 (20, #, #, 22, 24, #): Ch 3, turn, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, tr*, repeat * until the end of the row.

Repeat row 19 ( 19, #, #, 21, 23, #) once more, fasten off.

The second side of the neckhole for XS (S, #, #, 1X, 2X, #) only

Reattach yarn to the 19th (19th, #, #, 25th, 25th, #) st from the other side in row 18.

Row 1: Ch 3, 2 tr in same st, *sk 2, tr, sk 2, shell*, repeat * until there are 3 st left, sk 2, 3 tr in last st.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, tr*, repeat * until the end of the row.

Repeat row 1 once more, fasten off.

The first side of the neckhole for # (#, M, L, #, 3X) only

Row # (#, 19, 19, #, #, 23): Ch 3, turn, 2 tr in same st (3 total with ch 3), *sk 2, tr, sk 2, shell*, repeat until there are # (#, 22, 22, #, #, 28) st worked ending with one tr over a shell.

Row # (#, 20, 20, #, #, 24) : Ch 3, turn, 2 tr in same st (3 total with ch 3), *sk 2, tr, sk 2, shell*, repeat * until the end of the row.

Repeat row # (#, 19, 19, #, #, 23) once more, fasten off.

The second side of the neckhole for #, (#, M, L, #, #, 3X)

Reattach yarn to the # ( #, 22nd, 22nd, #, #, 28th) st from the other side in row 18.

Row 1: Ch 3, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, tr*, repeat * until there are 3 st left, sk 2, 3 tr in last st.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, tr*, repeat * until there are 3 st left, sk 2, 3 tr in last st.

Repeat row 1 once more, fasten off.

Repeat the steps of the front panel to make the back panel. Sew the two shoulders together. Mark the bottom of the 10th (10th, 10th, 11th, 11th, 12, 12th) row from the top shoulder seam to designate where the armhole will be. Sew the side seam from the bottom of the two panels until reaching the armhole on both sides of the panels.

Sleeves

Attach yarn to the side seam in the bottom of the arm hole.

Row 1: (RS) (Color A) Ch 1, 3 sc in the side of every tr row, sl st in sc. In total, about 60 (60, 60, 66, 66, 72, 72) sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every st around but spread out increases (two sc in same st) to make sure that there are 72 (72, 72, 78, 78, 84, 84) sc in the row.

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as tr), 1 turn, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, tr*, repeat * around, sl st in ch 3.

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as tr), turn, 2 tr in same st, *sk 2, tr, sk 2, shell*, repeat * around until 2 st left, 2 tr in 1st st, sl st in 3rd ch.

Repeat rows 3-4 once more, fasten off.

Row 7: (Color B) Ch 3 (counts as tr), turn, *sk 2, shell, sk 2, tr*, repeat * around, sl st in ch 3.

Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as tr), turn, 2 tr in same st, *sk 2, tr, sk 2, shell*, repeat * around until 2 st left, 2 tr in 1st st, sl st in ch 3.

Repeat rows 3-4 until row 22 is completed. Color B will begin 7-10 and color change will be every 4 rows.

Row 23: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every st across while spreading out 12 sc decreases through out the row, sl st in sc. In total, 60 (60, 60, 66, 66, 72, 72) st in the row.

Switch to H hook.

Row 24: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every st across, sl st in sc.

Row 25: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every st around while spreading out 10 sc decreases throughout the row, sl st in sc. In total, 50 (50, 50, 56, 56, 62, 62).

Row 26: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every st around while spreading out 8 (8, 8,10,10, 12, 12) (sc decreases throughout the row, sl st in sc. In total, 42 (42, 42, 46, 46, 50, 50).

Row 27: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every st around while spreading out 8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc decreases throughout the round, sl st in sc. In total, 34 (34, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38).

Row 28: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every st around while spreading out 8 (8, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sc decreases throughout the round, sl st in sc. In total, 26 (26, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32).

This is the width of the lower sleeve which was designed to be tight, so try on to make sure that it’s not too tight. You can go back and take out 2 or 4 of the decreases so that you have an even number of stitches if you desire the sleeve to be less snug.

Row 29: Ch 1, turn, *dc, ch 1, sk 1*, repeat * around, sl st in dc.

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in every st around, sl st in sc.

Repeat row 29-30 until row 52 is completed or until desired length ending with an even row.

Row 53: Ch 1, turn, *1 sc in next 2 st, ch3picot*, repeat around, sl st in sc.